There were some young hikers/campers next to me at the campground - they'd done 18km the previous day on the coast track and got a lift across the mouth of one of the coastal lakes (I presume) and not wanting to impose too much on their lift, they'd quickly hopped out of the boat and got their feet very wet. The girls at least had no camp shoes and had been walking around barefoot the previous evening. Knowing what that would feel like for me (though I'd NEVER not have camp shoes) I offered the smaller girl the 'shower thongs' that sit in my shower bag - she was most grateful, not only the previous evening, but that morning especially, as we discussed how cold they were feeling. (I had merino mid layer, fleece jacket, serious down jacket keeping me cosy along with long, thick merino socks!)
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| At the Eurobodella Botanic Gardens |
Looking at my options for the day, (I am determined to get to Bermagui this afternoon as I need to get some distance covered otherwise I'll end up with a massive day of driving to be in Melbourne by Saturday) there was a walk to the Bermagui state forest and picnic area but it does say access via an unsealed four-wheel-drive-only road and given my experience yesterday of roads that aren't classified four wheel drive, maybe I'll avoid that particular one.
In due course I packed up and needed to put away a very wet awning. It had rained briefly early the previous evening but there had been an incredibly heavy dew and I also had a heck of a lot of condensation inside the car because I had a few wet items of clothing that were only going to get wetter outside overnight, so dealing with that condensation was a bit tedious.
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At the Eurobodella Botanic Gardens
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As I left the caravan park and drove towards the Princess Highway, I passed through some lovely forest and the dappled sunlight slanting through the trees is lovely, but it doesn't make for the easiest driving.
My first stop was the Eurobodella Botanic Gardens. I was advised that one of the tracks was closed because of flooding and when I remarked about negotiating puddles, the lady identified that it was more than puddles! Presumably a particularly extensive water feature.
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| Camel Rock |
The gardens are lovely, very nicely laid out native gardens. I wondered again at the gum trees with black trunks, as may Eucalyptus longifolia had black trunks - to quite a height, yet spotted gums nearby not so. Subsequent discussion with a lady in the visitor centre identified that incredibly intense bushfires in 2019 were probably responsible and bushfire behaviour can impact one and not another nearby.
Google later told me that Eucalyptus sideroxylon, one of the Ironbarks, has very dark bark. That source of information also told me that spotted gums are more fire resistant than many other gums.
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| Surf's up! Haywards Beach |
My next destination, the Mogo State Forest Bushwalk, apparently no longer exists. Where it might have started, there is now a sign identifying that mountain bike tracks are being developed and there is no current access. My correct location was confirmed by a local.
In Mogo I did a quick u-turn to fill up with petrol at under 180 cents per litre. I had promised myself that if I saw it down to that price, and I only saw it one cent cheaper over the next 90-odd kilometres.
Upon impulse, I stopped for a cheese tasting at Bodella and purchased a rather nice smoked cheddar.
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| Looking North before Horsehead rock lookout |
I was very pleased that the Wallaga Lake bridge was opened, unlike when it was all flooded a month or two ago. It must be quite a long detour to go around the lake.
I proceeded to Camel Rock lookout and walked from there to Horsehead Rock lookout; I had to get to the north of Horsehead rock to actually appreciate its name. Both are quite spectacular geological features.
From there I had planned to walk the Beauty Point circuit but a predominantly southerly wind was picking up to add a little discomfort, so I settled for a short walk at the point and pondered my options for the night.
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| Horsehead Rock |
The online reviews of the camping facilities were a bit grim - expensive or below par facilities or soggy campsites, plus the weather forecast was for reasonable wind and rain setting in. So I looked at alternate options. There was one AIRBNB that looked inviting but with only 2 reviews, one satisfactory and one castigating, I decided to see what Booking.com suggested. It suggested, amongst other things, a cabin at one of the caravan parks nearby at Wallaga Lake, so I lobbed up to see what they could do. It took a bit of effort to find reception behind the builders' set up and then to rouse someone who might be able to assist me; he assisted me in a most satisfactory way with a very good price for a 2 bedroom villa with a spacious balcony overlooking the lake. The place has no character whatsoever but it is clean and has everything I need for a night.
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Westrigia fructosa -
native rosemary on the coast track |
I headed into Bermagui to restock my food supplies so I could cook dinner and was successful in procuring another bottle of the wine I liked so much the other night, albeit a later vintage. I was rather delighted that the local Woolworth stocked oyster mushrooms and also that the young assistant supervising the self checkouts responded to my grumble about there only be one proper checkout in operation, and that being currently occupied by someone who showed all appearance of stocking up for the apocalypse for his immediate neighbourhood.
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| Late afternoon light from Beauty Point |
Then, just because I could, and curiosity got the better of me, I headed for Bermagui's Blue Pool - an ocean swimming pool. Despite BOM's description of the risk of damaging surf and my observations from earlier, I still a little surprised to not find the pool. There was some serious surf rolling over where it is. I was content to view from road level and felt no need to join those who had gone down to a lower viewing platform. Last year when I thought it might be a good place for a swim, it was just cold and breezy and that put me off. This year it looked as if it would take no prisoners!
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| Bermagui's Blue Pool is under that surf!! |
I returned to my 'villa' and pulled out my very soggy awning to dry a little. A little is the operative expression, but when I put it away it was only wet - not running down my arm soaking. And I was able to roll it up more effectively and zip it into its case.
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| Dusk from my 'villa' verandah |
Then to make dinner - one of my travelling standbys - stir fried veggies with rice. I used the penultimate chilli from my garden; I am sure these chillies are getting hotter with time. I served it with some tinned tuna which was actually better than I expected. While travelling I am resorting to using the very easy 'instant rice' options - I spent a lot of time on my trip last year burning rice in my billy.
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